How to Wash Block-Printed and Kalamkari Cotton So the Colour Lasts
Hand block, Kalamkari and Ajrakh prints are made with natural and low-impact dyes on cotton. They are not fragile – people have worn and washed them for centuries – but they behave differently from a machine-printed synthetic, and most damage happens in the first wash. Here is the whole routine.
The first wash
- Wash it alone, or only with the same colour. Natural dyes release a little excess colour the first time, especially reds, indigos and blacks. It will not stain the garment itself; it can stain a white it is washed with.
- Cold water only. Warm water opens the fibre and lets dye out. Cold keeps it in.
- Add a spoon of salt or a cup of white vinegar to the first wash. Either helps fix the dye. (Vinegar for reds and blacks, salt for indigo.)
- Mild liquid detergent, no bleach, no optical brighteners – they strip natural dye.
- Turn it inside out and use the gentle cycle or hand wash. Do not soak for more than 15 minutes.
- Do not wring. Squeeze gently, or roll in a towel.
- Dry in shade, inside out. Direct sun fades natural dye faster than any wash.
Every wash after that
Cold, gentle, inside out, mild detergent, shade. Once the first wash is done the dye is stable and the piece can go in with similar colours. Kalamkari and Ajrakh actually improve – the cloth softens and the colours settle into the mellow tone the craft is known for.
Ironing
Iron on medium while the cotton is still slightly damp, inside out. If it has dried fully, spray lightly with water first. Steam is fine. Avoid the highest setting on Ajrakh – the resist paste residue can scorch.
What is normal
- A slight softening or mellowing of the print after the first wash – this is the myrobalan-treated cotton and natural dye settling. It is the look.
- A faint earthy smell when new, which washes out.
- Small variations in colour density across the piece – hand printing, not a defect.
- A little shrinkage on khadi and mulmul (1–3%), which is why we say size up if between sizes.
What is not normal, and what to do
- The print bled onto the garment’s own white areas. Usually from warm water or a long soak. Rinse immediately in cold water with vinegar; most of it lifts.
- A colour patch faded fast. Sun exposure while drying, or a detergent with brightener. Switch detergent and dry in shade; the fading will not continue.
- Stiff after washing. Hard water. A cup of vinegar in the rinse softens cotton.
Storage
Fold rather than hang for long periods (hanging stretches cotton at the shoulder). Keep out of direct light. Cotton needs to breathe, so cloth bags rather than plastic.
By craft
| Craft | First-wash note | Ongoing |
|---|---|---|
| Kalamkari | Alone, cold, vinegar; expect slight softening | With similar colours, cold |
| Ajrakh | Alone, cold, salt; indigo may tint the water | Cold; medium iron, not hot |
| Hand block (Bagru, Sanganer, Baagh) | Alone, cold | As any cotton |
| Ikkat | Cold; colour is in the yarn, very stable | As any cotton |
| Khadi | Cold; expect slight shrinkage | Iron damp; softens with age |
FAQs
Can I machine-wash Kalamkari?
Yes – gentle cycle, cold, inside out, in a mesh bag if you have one. Hand wash is gentler but not required.
Does Ajrakh fade?
It mellows over the first few washes, then holds for years. Sun while drying is the only thing that fades it quickly.
Can I use fabric softener?
Skip it; a cup of vinegar in the rinse does the same job without coating the fibre.
Not sure which craft you have? See Kalamkari vs Ajrakh vs hand block vs Ikkat.
